Hydration is an essential step of every skincare, no skin can do without it, not even that fatter. If this is generally known, what is not known is that there are different types of moisturizers and they are:
  • humectants
  • emollients
  • occlusive
Understanding the difference between these three categories of active ingredients can certainly help in the choice of products suitable for your skin type and above all choose how to include them in your routine, generally remembering that the products applied first, with the lightest consistency, are the ones that penetrate deeper into the skin.
Humectants are highly moisturizing molecules, they have the ability to attract and absorb water in larger quantities than their own weight which also translates into a momentary plumping effect that minimizes the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines. If used continuously, they can therefore significantly influence the formation of new signs and the worsening of existing ones. Many humectants also have other properties, they are antioxidants, anti-inflammatory and antibacterial, essential allies for all skin types.
In Korean cosmetics, humectants are never lacking, in any type of product, creams, serums, essences and emulsions, above all they are the main ingredient in the serums of fabric masks, and this explains a little their magic in making the 'complexion immediately hydrated, firm and vital. Among the most frequently used humectants we find: hyaluronic acid, glycerin, urea, aloe, collagen (and also all the alpha hydroxy acids - AHA but these as acids must be used with caution)
Emollients are substances capable of softening and making the superficial layers of the skin more elastic. They soften the tissues and soothe irritations. They are placed in the middle for consistency between humectants and occlusives and many also have remarkable nourishing properties for the skin, including: natural oils (almond, argan, jojoba, olive ..), squalene and squalane.
Occlusives are those moisturizers that create a" physical "barrier on the last layer of the skin to the double aim to protect it and above all to prevent the loss of hydration. In fact, moisture evaporates from our skin through the pores, if the most oily skins manage to balance the loss of hydration with an overproduction of sebum, the same does not happen for dry skin. Nonetheless, dehydration is an imperfection that can afflict any type of skin and occlusives are essential to strengthen the hydrolipidic barrier. It is also true, however, that if applied individually, the occlusives are not very moisturizing by themselves, their true potential is expressed when they are applied in conjunction with the humectants, in other words in the context of a Korean ritual stratification before the humectants and then the occlusives to seal their beneficial properties avoiding evaporation. Among the most common occlusives: beeswax, lanolin, natural butters (shea, cocoa, mango ...), steroids, silicones and vegetable waxes